DIY Industrial Factory Window Shower Door: Transform Your Basic Glass Door for Under $60
I am absolutely thrilled to finally share the complete tutorial for my DIY Industrial Factory Window Shower Door project, a highlight from our master bathroom budget makeover. This transformation is truly mind-blowing, and I’ve been eagerly awaiting the day I could unveil all the details. My inbox has been flooded with requests to spill the beans on how I achieved this high-end look on a shoestring budget, and today is the day I reveal all my secrets!
Perhaps you’re tired of hearing about our bathroom makeover by now, but I promise this is the grand finale! For months, I’d been captivated by the industrial-style factory window shower doors adorning countless Pinterest boards. Their sleek, modern aesthetic and robust character immediately caught my eye. The only significant hurdle? Their exorbitant price tags and the extensive demolition and professional installation typically required. These doors were far beyond my budget and renovation comfort zone.
Determined to achieve this coveted look without the hefty cost or major construction, I devised a brilliant method to replicate the factory window design directly onto our existing builder-grade shower door. The most exciting part? I managed to complete this entire transformation for just under $60, proving that high style doesn’t have to come with a high price tag. This project is a testament to what a little creativity and elbow grease can accomplish!
Supplies You’ll Need:
(Affiliate links are provided below for your convenience. For more information, please see my full disclosure.)
- Approximately 3 cans of Rust-Oleum Universal Hammered Black spray paint
- High-quality painter’s tape (I highly recommend this brand for clean lines)
- Plastic drop cloths (essential for protecting surrounding surfaces)
- Respirator mask (critical for safety when spray painting)
- Putty knife (for precise tape removal)
- 5 lengths of 1/4″ x 3/4″ x 96″ Polystyrene Lattice Moulding (lightweight and moisture-resistant)
- Tape measure
- Level (a small one is perfect for the molding)
- Black permanent marker
- Loctite GO2 Glue (a robust, clear, and waterproof adhesive)
- Loctite 2-in-1 Clear Latex Window and Door Caulk (for sealing and durability)
- Caulk gun
- Caulk finishing tool (for a professional, smooth finish)
*Note: I already had many of the basic tools like a tape measure, level, and caulk gun on hand, as they are common staples in our DIY workshop. This further reduced the overall cost of the project.
UPDATE: (December 2016)
It’s been quite some time since this project was completed, and I’m thrilled to report that we still absolutely LOVE this shower door! Its industrial charm continues to elevate our bathroom. The only minor adjustment I would recommend to this tutorial, based on long-term experience, is to enhance the paint’s durability. For optimal longevity, I would first apply an automotive primer to the metal frame, followed by the Rust-Oleum Hammered Black, and finally sealed with a clear spray lacquer. While our original finish is holding up remarkably well, I’ve noticed a tiny bit of wear on the bottom inside of the shower door frame. I believe the primer and lacquer steps would have completely prevented this. Despite this minor detail, the project remains incredibly worthwhile and continues to impress us every day.
Estimated Time: 3 days
This project can easily be managed on your own, as I completed it without any assistance from my husband. It’s not physically strenuous, but it does require a good amount of time to allow for proper drying between paint coats and glue application. Patience is key to achieving a professional and durable finish.
To begin this exciting transformation, you’ll need a standard framed hinged glass shower door, the kind commonly found in builder-grade homes. This project is specifically designed to work with your existing setup, avoiding costly replacements.
Here’s what my shower door looked like before I began its dramatic metamorphosis:
Step-by-Step Transformation Guide:
Step 1: Thorough Cleaning and Drying. The foundation of any successful paint project is a clean surface. Begin by meticulously cleaning your shower door, aiming to eliminate every trace of soap scum, hard water stains, and grime. A powerful yet simple solution of equal parts white vinegar and dish soap can work wonders. Apply the mixture, let it sit for a few minutes, scrub thoroughly with a non-abrasive sponge, and then rinse completely. After cleaning, it’s crucial to ensure the shower is completely dry. We refrained from using our shower for a full 48 hours to guarantee all moisture had evaporated. (Rest assured, we maintained our hygiene by using another shower during this time!)
Step 2: Masking for Protection. This step is vital for a clean, professional finish. Using your plastic drop cloths and painter’s tape, meticulously cover every surface you do not want painted. This includes the glass panels of the shower door, the entire interior of the shower stall, the floor, and surrounding walls. Be generous with your tape, creating crisp, clean lines around the shower frame. When you’re done, your bathroom might resemble a meticulously prepped crime scene – but trust me, this thoroughness will pay off!
Step 3: Spray Painting the Shower Frame. Before you begin, ensure adequate ventilation by opening any windows in the bathroom. Crucially, wear your respirator mask for safety, as spray paint fumes can be quite strong and harmful. Now, you’re ready to apply three thin, even coats of the hammered black spray paint to both the inside and outside of the shower door frame.
To prevent drips and ensure a smooth finish, always keep the can moving in a steady, sweeping motion. Avoid holding it in one spot for too long. A key benefit of the Rust-Oleum Universal Hammered Black spray paint is its built-in primer, which can save you an extra step. However, as noted in my update, for maximum durability and resistance to wear, I now highly recommend starting with a coat of automotive primer, followed by the hammered black paint, and then sealing everything with a clear spray lacquer. This additional protection will ensure your finish lasts even longer.
I did encounter an issue with two of my three spray paint cans clogging, which I suspect was due to the paint’s thick consistency. If this happens to you, don’t hesitate to exchange them for new cans, as I did at Lowe’s. A fresh can can make all the difference for a smooth application.
I must confess, that first coat was a bit nerve-wracking! My immediate thought was, “Oh no, what have I done?!” But trust the process – it truly does get better with each subsequent coat. Hang in there!
Allow each coat to dry to the touch before applying the next, which usually takes about an hour depending on humidity and temperature. This prevents drips and ensures proper adhesion.
Step 4: Careful Tape Removal. Once all paint coats are applied, let the frame dry thoroughly for a full 24 hours. This curing time is critical before attempting tape removal. The most important lesson I learned from this step is to use a putty knife to gently score the edges of the painter’s tape before pulling it off. This creates a clean break in the paint line and prevents peeling. Learn from my mistake: I skipped this step and ended up with less-than-perfect edges, as you can see here:
Scoring the tape would have easily prevented this minor hiccup. Consider me your guinea pig in this DIY experiment! If you do encounter any “oops” spots or areas needing touch-ups, don’t despair. I’ve compiled a few handy tricks and fixes in this dedicated post to help you troubleshoot:
Despite my initial error, with a few touch-ups, the painted frame turned out looking absolutely fantastic!
Step 5: Preparing the Vertical Grid Pieces. While the paint on the shower door frame was drying, I shifted my focus to creating the grid pattern for the “factory window” effect. I had previously measured the exact dimensions of the clear glass inserts on my shower door, which is crucial for precise cuts.
I started by cutting the vertical sections of the grid using polystyrene lattice moulding. I envisioned my factory window having 5 panes across and 4 panes vertically. For the vertical elements, I needed three full lengths that matched the height of the glass panel on my fixed shower door section. For the hinged door section, I would need a different number of vertical pieces, as explained in Step 7. Polystyrene is an ideal material for this project because it is inherently moisture-resistant, making it perfect for bathroom environments. It’s also incredibly lightweight, easy to cut, and remarkably affordable at approximately $2 per length.
Step 6: Painting the Moulding Pieces. Take your cut polystyrene pieces (the three vertical lengths) to a well-ventilated area, like your garage. Spray paint them with the same hammered black spray paint used for the shower frame. Start by painting the backside of the pieces first. This ensures that the front-facing side will have the smoothest finish, free from any potential wrinkles or imperfections caused by the pieces being flipped over onto a drop cloth while drying. I applied three thin, even coats to both sides of each moulding piece, allowing sufficient drying time between coats, just as with the main shower frame.
Step 7: Precise Measuring and Marking for Placement. This step involves a bit of simple math, which even this former high school English teacher managed to master! Since I aimed for 5 panes across and 4 panes vertically, I needed to precisely calculate the spacing for my moulding. For the fixed, left side of the shower door, I divided the total width of the glass by 3 (to create three equal sections, requiring two vertical moulding pieces). This gave me the exact distance between each vertical moulding strip.
I repeated this process for the right side of the door, which is the hinged, opening section. For this side, I divided its width by 2 (to create two equal sections, requiring one vertical moulding piece). Using a tape measure and a black permanent marker, I carefully marked these measurements directly onto the glass. I chose a black marker specifically so that any stray marks would blend in seamlessly with the black moulding pieces, making them practically invisible later on. If you happen to make a mistake with the marker, a little nail polish remover on a cotton ball will effortlessly wipe it away!
To determine the spacing for the horizontal moulding pieces, I divided the total height of the shower door glass by 4 (to create four equal horizontal panes). I then marked these points on the glass, ensuring my future horizontal strips would align perfectly.
Step 8: Applying the Loctite GO2 Glue. Once your painted moulding pieces are completely dry, it’s time to adhere them. Apply a continuous, thin line of Loctite GO2 Glue to the backside of each moulding piece. Work with one piece at a time to avoid the glue drying prematurely. This particular adhesive is an excellent choice for this project because it dries completely clear, leaving no visible residue. More importantly, it boasts extreme strength and is highly resistant to both temperature fluctuations and moisture, making it incredibly durable in the humid environment of a bathroom. These properties are crucial for ensuring your grid stays firmly in place over time.
Step 9: Attaching the Vertical Moulding Pieces. Carefully apply each vertical moulding piece, one at a time, aligning it with your black marker guides. The Loctite GO2 Glue provides a minute or two of working time, allowing you to reposition the piece and make any minor adjustments for perfect alignment. Use your level to double-check that each piece is perfectly straight before firmly pressing it against the glass. Hold it in place for about a minute to allow the glue to begin setting, ensuring a secure bond.
Step 10: Cutting the Horizontal Moulding Pieces. With the vertical pieces securely in place, use your tape measure again to accurately determine the widths between these newly installed vertical sections. Based on my desired 5 panes across and 4 panes vertically, and having already installed my vertical pieces, I needed to cut 15 individual horizontal moulding pieces. Precision here is paramount to create perfectly square or rectangular “window panes” and a truly convincing factory window look. Cut each piece carefully to ensure a snug fit between the vertical strips.
Step 11: Attaching the Horizontal Moulding Pieces. Employ the exact same process used for the vertical pieces to adhere your horizontal moulding strips. Apply a line of Loctite GO2 Glue to the back of each piece, then carefully place it over your marked horizontal lines on the door. Again, use your small level to meticulously double-check the alignment of each piece and make any necessary adjustments before the glue fully sets. This is where patience and attention to detail truly shine. (By the way, that level I’m using is a cherished heirloom, older than I am, handed down from my husband’s grandfather. It’s certainly seen a lot of action over the years, hence its well-loved, slightly “shabby” appearance!) The consistent application and checking will result in a perfectly symmetrical and striking grid.
Step 12: Sealing with Caulk for Durability. To ensure maximum durability and to prevent any moisture, mold, or mildew from settling in the tiny gaps between the polystyrene moulding and the glass, I highly recommend sealing all the edges with clear latex caulk. This step is critical for a long-lasting, hygienic finish, especially in a high-moisture environment like a shower. The caulk acts as a protective barrier, extending the life and pristine appearance of your DIY industrial shower door.
If you’ve never worked with this type of caulk before, don’t worry – it’s quite forgiving. It will dispense white, but will dry to a transparent, clear finish. Apply a continuous bead of caulk along both sides of each moulding strip, working in manageable sections. This allows you enough time to smooth it before it begins to set.
Then, use a caulk finishing tool or even a moistened finger to smooth out the caulk lines. It can be a bit messy initially, but the effort is well worth it for the peace of mind knowing that your moulding is reinforced and completely sealed against moisture. This step ensures both the aesthetic appeal and the long-term integrity of your transformed shower door.
After the caulk has completely dried and cured (check product instructions for specific drying times), you will have your dream industrial-style shower door! We waited a full 24 hours after all applications before using the shower again, just to ensure everything had properly set and cured. That first shower felt a bit nerve-wracking, but I’m thrilled to report it held up 100% perfectly, exceeding all my expectations.
If you’re wondering about its durability over time, I can happily tell you that we’ve been using this shower regularly for a month now, and we’ve encountered absolutely no problems whatsoever. There’s been no chipping, no peeling, and nothing but pure awesomeness! To maintain its pristine condition, I would advise against aggressively scrubbing the door with anything overly abrasive. Gentle cleaning with standard bathroom cleaners should be sufficient to keep it looking fantastic for years to come.
It’s become a running joke that whenever we have guests over, we’ll probably weird them out by excitedly asking, “Hey! Wanna come see our shower?” If they know us, they’ll completely understand the enthusiasm for this incredible DIY project!
To see the complete reveal of our master bathroom budget makeover, including how this industrial shower door fits into the overall design, head over to this post for all the details:
Are you feeling inspired to tackle this industrial shower door transformation yourself? If you decide to try it, I would absolutely love to see your results! Share your projects and let me know how it goes in the comments below.
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